On Saturday we flew from London into Nimes, then took a bus into the city center and then took the train from Nimes to Avignon. The train arrives just outside the town center, which – like some of the Tuscan towns we recently visited and Tallinn – is surrounded all around by a high wall. We made our way up the cobbled streets to our cute little hotel, La Banasterie, which we found on Trip Advisor. Jean Michel was our host and La Banasterie was lovely – quite unique and very French. The street around the corner from La Banasterie -
After dropping our bags we left to look around the lovely town of Avignon, the biggest feature of which is the amazingly imposing Palais des Papes, built in the 14th Century by the Popes who wanted to get away from the chaos of Rome.
The Palais des Papes overlooks a huge square which feeds on to the main commercial square of Place de l'Horlage. We quickly decided a café au lait and cake were in order and found nice café on the square to sit out side and watch the action. Avignon was much warmer than London – about 15 degrees the day we arrived and sunny. We spent the rest of the afternoon checking out the local stores until they closed but then continued to enjoy the mild weather seeing the famous Pont d’Avignon bridge -
- and then making our way to Le Grand Café for dinner, recommended by Jean Michel, which, while the food was ok (mine was really salty) had brilliant, French provincial style décor – lots of original features and these absolutely enormous mirrors around the walls.
The main reason for our trip was to go to a famous market at a small town about 25km from Avignon called Isle sur la Sorgue. We weren’t entirely sure how to get there, so after dinner went back to the train station to confirm times. Unfortunately the only time was very early or about midday – neither of which really worked for us. So after much searching, we finally found the bus station which had the perfect 9.30am bus to get there in time to see all the morning stalls. By this stage we were both exhausted so headed back to the hotel for a good night sleep.
The next morning, after a very nice, very French breakfast, we headed back to the bus station for Isle sur la Sorgue. The day was absolutely gorgeous – about 17 degrees and clear blue sky. As soon as we arrived in the town, we could see the market along both sides of the main street and winding around the town.
The antiques part is mostly along the main street where there are also a lot of permanent antiques shops. There were many beautiful and interesting things –
- unfortunately the only thing I really loved was a very big, solid cabinet at about 650 euros.
While we found lots of nice things, it was very pricey – not quite sure they were worth that much. But we had a great time wandering through the antique stalls and stores (check The Rocking Horse Blog for some new additions) and then around to the food market.
Early afternoon we took the bus back to Avignon and walked around a lot more – up to a park on the hill which had an amazing view of the country side and the town and then back to the Palais des Papes to do the tour of the inside which you could do at your leisure with an audio guide – definitely the best way to do these tours as you can pick which information you want to hear about.
The [very] Grand Chapel -
After a big day of walking it was definitely time for a nice glass of white in the Place de l'Horlage as dusk fell -
Then after a quick stop back at the hotel, we got dinner at Le Vache Carreaux, another recommendation of Jean Michel’s and a fantastic choice. We ordered the house special – a 2-tiered plate of different cheeses and hams of the region, all washed down with a bottle of local Cotes du Rhone wine, followed by some of the most chocolatey chocolate puddings ever. Tres tres bien.
The next morning we had another great breakfast and then headed out for some last minute shopping. Although, being a Monday in France, most things were either closed or opened at midday so not much shopping to be had. After that, we collected our bags, took the train back to Nimes, cab to the airport, flight back to London and bus home.
